I read an interview with Gitman Brothers, an American manufacturer of button-front and button-down shirts. Did you ever see a garment label touting single-needle tailoring? I usually see this on older shirts from thrifting. Well, Gitman explains that, in America, double-needle can be the way to go as our laundering processes, even drycleaning, are much harsher than that of Europe. I wonder what they do, or don't do?! And when we decided to elevate single-needle tailoring?
French seams are also quite nice but they don't apply here as it is a two-step process and has no give. French seams are probably a step-up and often cited as a couture treatment.
A flat-felled stitch is most often seen on the inseam of your denim. Notice the double row of stitching. It is defacto in the better, more pricey shirts on today's shelves. Apparently flat-felling has been the standard since the 20's and 30's. Not only does it give a nice clean finish, that won't snag, it has a certain amount of elasticity to it. On the back side you'll notice the stitch isn't a simple dashed line. It is, in embroidery, what they call a chain stitch, also seen on better denim waistbands. This gives the shirt, and your denim, a nice expand and contract recovery, stability, and durability.
I'm posting pictures of the felling machine I bought when I first set up shop. It is ancient. I was never able to thread it until last night. 3 years I've been staring at it, while the dust gathers. I actually put fabric under it and ran it. Twas not a successful first run, alas! I am not giving up on ol' felly.
My girl, Jeannine once found a manual for it on, I kid you not, the Smithsonian website. I've since misplaced it and tried looking it up last night. I was unable to find it - this time. I did, however, unearth these amazing tradecards, one of which, gave me the solution to a gnarly problem. Enjoy!
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