2.15.2010
1.28.2010
Felled in love...
At last!!! I threaded my Wilcox and Gibbs Feldlock! One less thing standing in the way of me and masterful re/production.
I read an interview with Gitman Brothers, an American manufacturer of button-front and button-down shirts. Did you ever see a garment label touting single-needle tailoring? I usually see this on older shirts from thrifting. Well, Gitman explains that, in America, double-needle can be the way to go as our laundering processes, even drycleaning, are much harsher than that of Europe. I wonder what they do, or don't do?! And when we decided to elevate single-needle tailoring?
French seams are also quite nice but they don't apply here as it is a two-step process and has no give. French seams are probably a step-up and often cited as a couture treatment.
A flat-felled stitch is most often seen on the inseam of your denim. Notice the double row of stitching. It is defacto in the better, more pricey shirts on today's shelves. Apparently flat-felling has been the standard since the 20's and 30's. Not only does it give a nice clean finish, that won't snag, it has a certain amount of elasticity to it. On the back side you'll notice the stitch isn't a simple dashed line. It is, in embroidery, what they call a chain stitch, also seen on better denim waistbands. This gives the shirt, and your denim, a nice expand and contract recovery, stability, and durability.
I'm posting pictures of the felling machine I bought when I first set up shop. It is ancient. I was never able to thread it until last night. 3 years I've been staring at it, while the dust gathers. I actually put fabric under it and ran it. Twas not a successful first run, alas! I am not giving up on ol' felly.
My girl, Jeannine once found a manual for it on, I kid you not, the Smithsonian website. I've since misplaced it and tried looking it up last night. I was unable to find it - this time. I did, however, unearth these amazing tradecards, one of which, gave me the solution to a gnarly problem. Enjoy!
I read an interview with Gitman Brothers, an American manufacturer of button-front and button-down shirts. Did you ever see a garment label touting single-needle tailoring? I usually see this on older shirts from thrifting. Well, Gitman explains that, in America, double-needle can be the way to go as our laundering processes, even drycleaning, are much harsher than that of Europe. I wonder what they do, or don't do?! And when we decided to elevate single-needle tailoring?
French seams are also quite nice but they don't apply here as it is a two-step process and has no give. French seams are probably a step-up and often cited as a couture treatment.
A flat-felled stitch is most often seen on the inseam of your denim. Notice the double row of stitching. It is defacto in the better, more pricey shirts on today's shelves. Apparently flat-felling has been the standard since the 20's and 30's. Not only does it give a nice clean finish, that won't snag, it has a certain amount of elasticity to it. On the back side you'll notice the stitch isn't a simple dashed line. It is, in embroidery, what they call a chain stitch, also seen on better denim waistbands. This gives the shirt, and your denim, a nice expand and contract recovery, stability, and durability.
I'm posting pictures of the felling machine I bought when I first set up shop. It is ancient. I was never able to thread it until last night. 3 years I've been staring at it, while the dust gathers. I actually put fabric under it and ran it. Twas not a successful first run, alas! I am not giving up on ol' felly.
My girl, Jeannine once found a manual for it on, I kid you not, the Smithsonian website. I've since misplaced it and tried looking it up last night. I was unable to find it - this time. I did, however, unearth these amazing tradecards, one of which, gave me the solution to a gnarly problem. Enjoy!
1.27.2010
Zipper me this
I had a heck of a time fitting my lookbook pdfs into a reasonable sized document. I don't have the software to make it any smaller. I have everything else in CS except Acrobat. Bizarre . Until it is in fine emailable form, I have no business promoting myself to stores. You gotta back that talk up and make it very easy for them to enjoy. Thankfully, my friend is jamming it out for me.
I've been researching cold-calling, because basically I am selling my line, and my vision to shopkeeps. They have a lot riding on the curation of their store offerings. Just as much as I need to pinpoint my market, they have the same responsibilities. Some of the things I need to express are my value to them, my commitment to quality, my history, my longevity and even customer service, of which they are my customer.
What value do I offer them? This has been a great question to ask myself. Creating my script or talking points really forces me to focus on my goals and product.
Environmental awareness through fabrics, production and delivery. I'm doing my best to source my fabrics regionally and hopefully with all natural, sustainable, even organic textiles woven in the states. I use deadstock fabrics and would like to innovate other ways to use materials that are already available instead of calling virgin resources into being. I am regional, local even. The costs, carbon, dollars, what have you, of delivery should remain low. Both of these methods reduce my costs and can be shared on down the line.
I only want to make something of value. Something that lasts, physically and stylistically. I hate the throw-away culture we live in. Designing for men makes more sense to me for that reason. The trends don't move as quickly in menswear and men will pay good money for well-made items.
I am the DIYer. I taught myself to sew and make patterns; I study production methods and dork-out on equipment; I network with other designers when and where I can; I follow the industry. I want to be the total package. No one is paying my bills.
Wound has made a name for itself, locally and nationally and will continue to do so. I don't mind playing the hype game. It means photoshoots, educating the consumer and sales!
I have to ask myself why I'm doing this, is it just an art project, do I have something to say, do I want the hassle?! I feel that my designs are sweet. I've made sales and people say nice things to me about my line:) I have struggled and endured. I know I'm strong enough to hit my head against the wall a few more times. I've turned the suffering into valuable learning experiences!
As far as service, I feel this door-to-door technique has so many benefits. First, I love the old fashioned nature of it. The interaction between business owners, talking shop and weather. I am very interested in what is selling, what people need or want to see in their closet, put on in the morning, change into for the night. Since, I can make plenty of the inventory in my facility, I can offer a more customized experience in the designs as well. It gives me the ability to be flexible and responsive. At this moment, it makes the most economic sense for me. I don't have to incur the costs of a trade show. While a tradshow offers more exposure to so many more markets, stores and buyers, it also increases the pressures of production and material organization AND the upfront costs. I'd prefer to grow gracefully and have any mistakes, miscalculations or errors be more contained.
After spending more time wondering why I do any of this at all, besides that I hate being bored and unproductive, to me, it's a game, a risk, an adventure. Since I'm not off galavanting about the globe, this gives me the dose of excitement and challenge I crave.
I've been researching cold-calling, because basically I am selling my line, and my vision to shopkeeps. They have a lot riding on the curation of their store offerings. Just as much as I need to pinpoint my market, they have the same responsibilities. Some of the things I need to express are my value to them, my commitment to quality, my history, my longevity and even customer service, of which they are my customer.
What value do I offer them? This has been a great question to ask myself. Creating my script or talking points really forces me to focus on my goals and product.
Environmental awareness through fabrics, production and delivery. I'm doing my best to source my fabrics regionally and hopefully with all natural, sustainable, even organic textiles woven in the states. I use deadstock fabrics and would like to innovate other ways to use materials that are already available instead of calling virgin resources into being. I am regional, local even. The costs, carbon, dollars, what have you, of delivery should remain low. Both of these methods reduce my costs and can be shared on down the line.
I only want to make something of value. Something that lasts, physically and stylistically. I hate the throw-away culture we live in. Designing for men makes more sense to me for that reason. The trends don't move as quickly in menswear and men will pay good money for well-made items.
I am the DIYer. I taught myself to sew and make patterns; I study production methods and dork-out on equipment; I network with other designers when and where I can; I follow the industry. I want to be the total package. No one is paying my bills.
Wound has made a name for itself, locally and nationally and will continue to do so. I don't mind playing the hype game. It means photoshoots, educating the consumer and sales!
I have to ask myself why I'm doing this, is it just an art project, do I have something to say, do I want the hassle?! I feel that my designs are sweet. I've made sales and people say nice things to me about my line:) I have struggled and endured. I know I'm strong enough to hit my head against the wall a few more times. I've turned the suffering into valuable learning experiences!
As far as service, I feel this door-to-door technique has so many benefits. First, I love the old fashioned nature of it. The interaction between business owners, talking shop and weather. I am very interested in what is selling, what people need or want to see in their closet, put on in the morning, change into for the night. Since, I can make plenty of the inventory in my facility, I can offer a more customized experience in the designs as well. It gives me the ability to be flexible and responsive. At this moment, it makes the most economic sense for me. I don't have to incur the costs of a trade show. While a tradshow offers more exposure to so many more markets, stores and buyers, it also increases the pressures of production and material organization AND the upfront costs. I'd prefer to grow gracefully and have any mistakes, miscalculations or errors be more contained.
After spending more time wondering why I do any of this at all, besides that I hate being bored and unproductive, to me, it's a game, a risk, an adventure. Since I'm not off galavanting about the globe, this gives me the dose of excitement and challenge I crave.
I do declah-ya!
We live here because we love it! There are untold opportunities, super hero talents, crazy territory, blank slate action manifestos, good food, the best people! My ultimate dream would be to produce my line here. All that is missing on my end are a few tasty machines. The keyhole button-holer, a heavy duty coverstitch (I have one for tee shirt weights), and a laser cutter, well I can dream, would be essential to producing my line as I see fit....It be freakin fantastic if I could get my flat feller and double needle chainstitch up and running. Get those silky covered seams in my shirts. I'd be playing with serious fire.
1.25.2010
What calls?!
Didn't make a single phone call today.
Here are my excuses:
Here are my excuses:
- Stores are close Mondays. Nope, not all of them.
- My lookbook is in review. True, but I know the main problems. Better fix them when I get home tonight.
- It was too late after I finished my commission and gathering notes. Should have started my day earlier.
- Have been researching cold-calling tips. It's true. Even pretending on my cell to be talking to a live person. Kind of boring, but my pitch is getting refined. As is my voice quality and steadiness.
I did, however, list my top choices for fabrics and their vendors for when the orders do come through. I bought the original yardage at a local jobber. Wouldn't you know, I bought the only yardage of each. When I started, I didn't think I'd be going straight through to producing this collection. So that adds a nice kink. So far it hasn't been awful. I've found some new vendors that look interesting and feel solid about the ones I've maintained.
Cold-chillin, cold-calling
Gonna get buzzed on coffee and head to the studio. Gotta finish/start some projects and get cracking on those phone calls. I have to return home with swatches to scan and upload, organize some dates for travel, and gather numbers for fabric hunting and production.
While in some of these towns, I'll be checking out manufacturers and jobbers, as well. Gotta have some back-up. I have a friend in Chicago with a store and she cuts all her own garments, then schleps them to her manufacturer. I can do that, if I don't end up hiring my own staff. The major reason against hiring my own staff, is that I don't want to have to let them go when we finish up my order. I want to keep them in steady work, keep the needles running, as they say. If I can't be a reliable source of income, how can I expect them to be a reliable source of labor. I just have to find people who don't mind working contractually. As we grow to like each other and the environment we create, I can take on more jobs to keep them busy.
The Sweet Fit
How are people supposed to find my awesome pants if they're are constantly bombarded with hawkers of shapeless, seemingly mass produced thai fisherman pants??? Anyone could wear these!!! Half the time it's pictures of women wearing them in the men's category. Nice. That's a selling point. Share them with the whole family. It's basically a snuggie for your legs.
Available in Black and Olive Drab 100% Cotton Canvas
Admittedly, we made some fishermen pants for our first runway collection, because they were easy breezy, from pattern to construction. They can look good and feel great. Plus we made them out of sports jersey and linen. We dressed them up, made them luxurious and cool. They're pictured on the website....
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