Zipper me this

I had a heck of a time fitting my lookbook pdfs into a reasonable sized document.  I don't have the software to make it any smaller. I have everything else in CS except Acrobat.  Bizarre . Until it is in fine emailable form, I have no business promoting myself to stores.  You gotta back that talk up and make it very easy for them to enjoy.  Thankfully, my friend is jamming it out for me.

I've been researching cold-calling, because basically I am selling my line, and my vision to shopkeeps.  They have a lot riding on the curation of their store offerings.  Just as much as I need to pinpoint my market, they have the same responsibilities. Some of the things I need to express are my value to them, my commitment to quality, my history, my longevity and even customer service, of which they are my customer.

What value do I offer them?  This has been a great question to ask myself.  Creating my script or talking points really forces me to focus on my goals and product.

Environmental awareness through fabrics, production and delivery.  I'm doing my best to source my fabrics regionally and hopefully with all natural, sustainable, even organic textiles woven in the states.  I use deadstock fabrics and would like to innovate other ways to use materials that are already available instead of calling virgin resources into being.  I am regional, local even.  The costs, carbon, dollars, what have you, of delivery should remain low.  Both of these methods reduce my costs and can be shared on down the line.

I only want to make something of value.  Something that lasts, physically and stylistically.  I hate the throw-away culture we live in.  Designing for men makes more sense to me for that reason.  The trends don't move as quickly in menswear and men will pay good money for well-made items.

I am the DIYer.  I taught myself to sew and make patterns; I study production methods and dork-out on equipment;  I network with other designers when and where I can; I follow the industry.  I want to be the total package.  No one is paying my bills.

Wound has made a name for itself, locally and nationally and will continue to do so.  I don't mind playing the hype game.  It means photoshoots, educating the consumer and sales!

I have to ask myself why I'm doing this, is it just an art project, do I have something to say, do I want the hassle?!  I feel that my designs are sweet.  I've made sales and people say nice things to me about my line:)  I have struggled and endured.  I know I'm strong enough to hit my head against the wall a few more times.  I've turned the suffering into valuable learning experiences!

As far as service, I feel this door-to-door technique has so many benefits.  First, I love the old fashioned nature of it.  The interaction between business owners, talking shop and weather.  I am very interested in what is selling, what people need or want to see in their closet, put on in the morning, change into for the night.  Since, I can make plenty of the inventory in my facility, I can offer a more customized experience in the designs as well.  It gives me the ability to be flexible and responsive.  At this moment, it makes the most economic sense for me.  I don't have to incur the costs of a trade show.  While a tradshow offers more exposure to so many more markets, stores and buyers, it also increases the pressures of production and material organization AND the upfront costs.  I'd prefer to grow gracefully and have any mistakes, miscalculations or errors be more contained.

After spending more time wondering why I do any of this at all, besides that I hate being bored and unproductive, to me, it's a game, a risk, an adventure.  Since I'm not off galavanting about the globe, this gives me the dose of excitement and challenge I crave.

I do declah-ya!

Declare Detroit!

We live here because we love it!  There are untold opportunities, super hero talents, crazy territory, blank slate action manifestos, good food, the best people!  My ultimate dream would be to produce my line here.  All that is missing on my end are a few tasty machines.  The keyhole button-holer, a heavy duty coverstitch (I have one for tee shirt weights), and a laser cutter, well I can dream, would be essential to producing my line as I see fit....It be freakin fantastic if I could get my flat feller and double needle chainstitch up and running.  Get those silky covered seams in my shirts.  I'd be playing with serious fire.

Cold-chillin, cold-calling

Gonna get buzzed on coffee and head to the studio.  Gotta finish/start some projects and get cracking on those phone calls.  I have to return home with swatches to scan and upload, organize some dates for travel, and gather numbers for fabric hunting and production.

While in some of these towns, I'll be checking out manufacturers and jobbers, as well.  Gotta have some back-up.  I have a friend in Chicago with a store and she cuts all her own garments, then schleps them to her manufacturer.   I can do that, if I don't end up hiring my own staff.  The major reason against hiring my own staff, is that I don't want to have to let them go when we finish up my order.  I want to keep them in steady work, keep the needles running, as they say.  If I can't be a reliable source of income, how can I expect them to be a reliable source of labor.  I just have to find people who don't mind working contractually.  As we grow to like each other and the environment we create, I can take on more jobs to keep them busy.

Were the magic happens.

I've made it for 3 years at the Russell Industrial Center as of this January!  Quite an accomplishment.  I don't know where'd I'd put my equipment or my beloved table otherwise.  I've done a bit of everything here to keep the bills paid from site installations and small-run apparel production, to 3-D sculpture and costume design.

Spring 2009: Mumbai Grafitti Glam: 1st Solo Collection

December 6, 2008

"Inspired by the flavors of curry and tamarind while backed by the pulsing imagery of glam rock, the award-winning WOUND Menswear's latest collection is simmering with texture and pattern.  Proportions get shrunk and lean on a diet of bold color and exploratory distortions.  This glitter dandy is whistling by the roadside, kicking up his feet and charming the girls and boys.  Futuristic impulses are kept restrained by an Indian romanticism.  This collection marks a break with the past as the first solo edition by noted designer Sarah Lapinski.  WOUND is designed for the iconoclast, the dreamer, the wounded warrior."

A year after my partner decided to bail, I finally dusted myself off to see what I was made of.  I was the designer, pattern maker, cutter and sewer.  These are the results:
Photos: Nicola Kuperus Model: Marc Fellis

 

 

 

 

 

 

TA DA!

Noone said it would be easy.

Why is running a fashion line so hard???  Is every business this labrynthine?  I guess if was easy, everybody would do it.  Read The Dip, study the law of 80/20, make a vision map, sell your soul.  Then you will have a clothing line.

I learned a while back, through experience, and one amazing woman, Kathleen Fasanella, and her book The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing, that one should identify oneself as a manufacturer.  (I get no goodies from linking to her, just social sweetness.)  I own her book, dog-eared, high-lighted, yada yada.  Sure, I could sit and doodle pretty dresses all day and some fairy godmother will get them all sold, made and shipped for me, depositing my handsome profit in the IRA, but that is not a reality! 

I just rewatched "Seamless", the documentary following 3 of 10 finalists on the road to winning the CFDA's New Garde award of mentorship and $200,000.  Here is a great review.   In my mind, you win GenArt, then Ecco and then, shoot for CFDA.  I would personally prefer this over the instant fame of Project Runway.  The industry leaders note that it took Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren 20 years to turn a profit.   How can you not, then, love Plokhov's existential query, "When do I get to enjoy my f-ing brioche?!"

In Detroit, there are no jobs for me.   Nothing in fashion, unless you want to work at the mall.  It causes one to hustle.  I have sewn a little bit of everything, glad to put my assets to use.  Might hit up the strip joints on Michigan Ave. (a 5 minute walk!) and hand out biz cards.  Nice mark-up on those skimpy frillies!   I do believe you can run a clothing business out of any city if you have the ambition and brains.  The internet is your friend.

Ultimately, a business partner would be divine.  Someone to slap your hand when you're over-purchasing over-priced goods.  Someone to calculate your costs and mark-up.  Someone who can be your friend, someone who cares....

Contract Sewing gig: 12' x 200' curtain sewn for artists industrial studio space to keep out the cold!

Claim Your Birthright!

Not a resolution, but a proclamation.

I never did anything with my degree. Nothing typical, standardized, or regulated at least. So here I am, 10 years later, with a half-functioning clothing line and a lot of experience waiting tables!

I got fired my last table waiting job, it's a long story. I suppose I should start this blog with honesty and carry that theme on through. I now get money from Uncle Sam. I call it my government grant (GG). Disclaimer: I have put out a resume or two, cast some lines. I'm being upright and stuff.

I just showed my collection, followed by a trunk sale. I have 6 months of GG. As of now this is the plan:  Set up photoshoot with the darling Nicola, and model boys Dom and Jeffrey; wait for confirmation from shy and blue-eyed Matthew; Turn photos into lookbook, complete with technical drawings and order forms; Identify local-ish shops that I have a relationship with AND create new relationships; Hit the road to sell, sell, sell; Line up my fabric and trim.

Then, guess what?!? I manufacture in the "D"! Don't believe me? 3 years ago, my former partner and I, out of frustration and determination, opened a contract sewing facility. We christened it Motor City Sewing. What a headache. (I will save this story for later...) My partner quite MCS 3 months later and Wound 3 months after that, in what was to be a half year of stomachaches.

I still have the space, the equipment and renewed vigor! Watch out 2010!!!!